A Guide to Hiking Bulgaria’s 7 Rila Lakes Trail in the Rila Mountains

Disclaimer: This is not a sponsored post, I paid for this trip myself. All recommendations and opinions are my own.

The Rila Mountains are the highest mountain range in Bulgaria and are a popular tourist destination, particularly for Bulgarian’s in both summer and winter. During the winter, visitors can enjoy a range of winter sports on the 27 marked ski runs and 12 lifts. During the summer there are lots of hiking trails to explore, with mountain huts providing accommodation and facilities to hikers.

We visited the Rila Mountains during our self-drive holiday around Bulgaria with the aim of hiking the famous seven Rila Lakes trail. To get there, we drove from Burgas with a stop along the way to explore the historic city of Plovdiv. The roads were a bit hair raising in places, particularly the road from Plovdiv to the Rila Mountains where the pot holes became cavernous. The driving also became rather erratic, as drivers created their own third lane by driving down the middle of the road to pass, despite oncoming traffic, which forced us into the shoulder in terror.

However, once we got to the road leading up the mountain, it was surprisingly good driving. Yes, it was very windy, but it was well sealed and reasonably wide with pull over bays. It does use a lot of fuel to get up there though so make sure you have enough fuel in your vehicle before heading up, as there were no petrol stations up there.

We were staying in the mountain resort village of Panichishte where there are a number of hotels nestled amongst the trees. This is the main accommodation area on the mountain, but there are also other hotels spotted around the mountain. I liked staying here as it was close to the Rila Lakes chair lift and there were other eating out options if you get sick of eating at your own accommodation. Although narrow, the road through the village was pretty good with places to pass.

We arrived late in the evening. As it was summer, it was light until quite late, so after checking in we headed out for a walk following a path from our accommodation. It was very peaceful in the mountains. In the evening we enjoyed a drink in the outdoor restaurant seating area of our accommodation. We were still quite full from our late lunch and large ice creams in Plovdiv, so we enjoyed some dried sausage, very salty sheep cheese, and some marvellous Tarator soup which we both absolutely fell in love with, it was so light and refreshing on a hot day. Tarator is a cold soup made with watered down yoghurt (Bulgarians love with their yoghurt), grated cucumber, garlic, walnut, dill and a splash of sunflower oil. They grow sunflowers in abundance here, we saw fields of them everywhere we drove. Similar to the way that olive oil is placed on your table in Greece, here you always are provided with a bottle of sunflower oil.

I had read about how long the lines get for the Rila Lakes lift during summer, so we were very keen to get up early and beat the crowds. However, our hotel didn’t serve breakfast until 08:30, so the following morning, we had a quick breakfast as soon it opened. We made ourselves a bacon, cheese and egg sandwich to take with us for a picnic lunch.

Getting to the Rila Lakes

The lift was only a short 15 minute drive from our hotel in the village of Panichishte, so we arrived just after 9am. The road was well sealed and reasonably wide with pull over bays along the way. At the entrance to the site there was an entry gate where we needed to pay an entrance fee. I can’t remember the exact fee (and I can’t find it online either) but it was under 10 lev, so not very expensive. We were happy to pay it considering the extensive cost of maintaining a park which gets so many visitors.

The parking is along the side of the road and is reasonably generous, but it does get busy. By the time we arrived there were already lots of cars parked. There were no additional parking fees. We walked up the road to get to the lifts. At the base of the lift was some souvenir shops and people selling corn and donuts.

How to Get up the Mountain to the 7 Rila Lakes Hiking Trail

There are three ways to get up the mountain to the start of the 7 Rila Lakes hiking trail. The first option is to hike up it. Challenging, but achievable for the reasonably fit. It can take from 1.5 – 2 hours depending on your fitness. The second option is to take the slow, old, two person chair lifts for about 18 lev return. The third option is to pay to be driven up in a 4WD. We decided to take the lifts as I was concerned about the environmental impact of the 4WD’s. Also, it was a beautiful day and although the lifts take about 20 minutes to get you up the mountain, it is a peaceful and scenic option.

We were worried there would be a long line for the lift, as it was a sunny Sunday, but there were only a few people waiting when we arrived (it was just prior to the European school summer holidays starting). The opening times for the lifts vary depending on the season and day of the week, so check the opening times before visiting. Sometimes the lift is closed for maintenance. It is typically closed on Monday mornings until midday for general maintenance.

If you are planning on taking the lift back down the mountain then purchase a return ticket. However, you can also purchase a single ride ticket. If you walk up and decide to take the lift down, then purchase your return ticket inside the Rila Lakes Chalet by the top of the lift.

Facilities on Rila Mountain

Toilets

The only toilets on the mountain are the ones by the parking lot and the ones in the Rila Lake Chalet at the top of the chair lift. Keep in mind that the mountain is open countryside so nowhere to hide for a pee! However, there are some small pine trees on the lower lake trail and I admit I ended up quickly going behind a tree because by that point I was busting. However, the trails were busy!

Food

There is some limited food options (mostly snacks) down at the base of the lifts, but there is a bar and restaurant at the Rila Lakes Chalet at top of the lift. I found it more pleasant to take a picnic lunch. Make sure you take plenty of water with you as well.

Hiking the 7 Rila Lakes Trail

The highlights of the 7 Rila Lakes are obviously the 7 lakes!

• The Tear – the highest one
• The Eye – the deepest one
• The Kidney – perfect for a picnic
• The Gemini – the largest one
• The Triplets
• The Fish Lake – the shallowest one
• The Lower Lake – the lowest one

We didn’t have a trail map as we couldn’t find one online. I was a bit worried that we wouldn’t know where to go and we would get lost, but the trail is so busy during the summer months, it’s very obvious where to go. There is also a basic map on a display board near the chair lift. By the time we got up the lift it was about 09:45 and the mountain side was busy. From the top of the lift we walked past the Rila Lake Chalet and up a rather steep hill. It was a tough start! But totally worth it as once we made it to the plateau we got our first glorious views over the lakes.

It was gloriously sunny and hot and the lakes were sparkling in the sunshine. The views were breathtaking, although most visitors seemed pre-occupied with how many poses they could strike for the perfect photo. Along the trail was a variety of wildflowers in pink, purple, yellow and white. We eventually stopped for a break and a snack at Kidney lake to prepare ourselves for the second steep climb up to Eye Lake.

The path up the mountain side to Eye Lake is rather steep with loose rock, so you do need a sturdy pair of shoes to walk this part. Thankfully the views over the lower lakes were a stunning excuse for regular stops along the way to catch my breath. If you are wondering if this path will be too steep for you, there was a range of people tackling this climb including the elderly, children and overweight which was inspiring and kept me motivated to keep going.

We had a short stop at the Eye where we surprisingly witnessed a man stripping down to some rather small speedos/budgie smugglers before continuing on with his hike. Well… it was a hot day. We did meet an interesting Bulgarian man who we discovered lived not far from us in the UK (6 degrees of separation – it’s a small world!) who told us how the fish got into these mountain lakes. Apparently the fish eggs are sticky and end up getting stuck to the legs of birds who then fly to these mountain lakes for a swim where the eggs come off in the water and then hatch.

There was one final steep climb in front of us to get to the highest point and Tear lake, so up we plodded. Our reward was that exhilarating feeling you get when you finally make it to the top of a mountain and you are surrounding with the most breathtaking views… oh and loads of people crammed around the point to pose for photos. We moved over to a quiet spot to enjoy our well deserved lunch and take in the amazing views in peace.

The final leg of our walk was around the paths that lead through the lower lakes. We stopped at shore of Gemini, which is the largest lake, to relax, soak up some sunshine and enjoy a peaceful nap in the mountains. After a good relaxing stop, we continued our walk to see the remaining smaller, the Triplets and Fish Lake. The path doesn’t take you to the Lower Lake, but you can see it from the path. The path then headed down a rocky hillside until we got to a small pine woodland where the path flattened out again. The path is quite clear and there was a sign directing us to walk up a hill to join the path that leads back to the chalet and chairlift to get back down again.

What to Wear and Pack for Hiking the Rila Seven Lakes Trail

The weather on the Rila Mountains can be very changeable, so always check the weather forecast before heading out. We were lucky when we visited as it was clear skies and about 27°C. However, the following day it was scheduled to rain and drop to 12°C. As it was hot, we were able to hike in t-shirt and shorts. We had planned to wear some sturdy hiking shoes, but we ended up just wearing some light sneakers which was fine as the paths were well worn.

Here are some tips on what to wear and pack for a day hiking the 7 Rila Lakes.

• Take plenty of water with you, the mountain climbs are tough and if it is hot, you will get super sweaty. About 1.5 litres each should do.
• The mountain sun can be very harsh, so be sun smart. Slather yourself in sunscreen, wear a sunhat and sunglasses.
• Wear some sturdy, comfortable hiking shoes with good grip. I admit we ended up wearing my sneakers because they were lighter and cooler but still comfortable, but we only got away with this because we had perfect conditions. You should plan for changeable weather.
• Wear layers so that if you get hot walking up the mountain side you more easily adjust your layers but still stay warm. However, in the cooler months you will need more serious cold weather thermals and warm hiking trousers.
• If you are hiking in summer, then this lightweight jacket is great for rolling up small but still keeping you warm and dry.
• Take a day bag to comfortably carry your items. I was surprised to see people carrying their items in plastic bags and handbags, which looked uncomfortable. I love this Travelon day bag because it can be used as a day hiking bag but is also stylish enough to be used for your city visits. It also has anti-theft features.
• Pocket tissues – you might need them as toilet paper.
• Camera
• Water bottle – I love this stainless steel drink bottle as I am trying to cut down on my use of plastics. This bottle is leak proof and insulated so keeps hot water hot and cold water cold.
• Snacks and a picnic lunch.

The following day we drove on to visit the historic Rila Monastery and Melnik, Bulgaria’s wine region and smallest town.

Accommodation Options in the Rila Mountains – Panichiste

This is the area we stayed in. It is a peaceful spot in the mountains, a short drive from the Rila Lakes lift and there is a decent road to it. All of the accommodation are similarly priced and are of good, moderate style.

Search all available accommodation in Panichiste.

• Hunting Residence Lodge – This is where we stayed, however, they do have taxidermy animals on display, so it is not for everyone.
• Hotel Bendida
• Villa Eva
• Family Hotel 6ATO RiLa
• Hizha Chuculiga
• Panorama Hotel – this hotel also offers ski rentals
• Villa Emma

Practical Tips for Visiting the Rila Mountains

• How long should I visit the Rila Mountains for? Hiking the 7 Rila Lakes trail will take a day. However, you could spend days in these mountains hiking the various trails if you love hiking.
• Can I swim in the lakes? No
• How to get to the Rila Mountains: The easiest way to get around the mountain is by car. However, if you are not in a position to hire a car, then there are a range of day tours from Sofia to choose from. You can also get a shared shuttle from Sofia.
• Language: Bulgarian. It can be difficult to understand signs when they are in Bulgarian, as it looks nothing like the English version. Many of the areas we visited in Bulgaria only limited people spoke English, so we tried to make an effort with some Bulgarian. I encourage you to try a little Bulgarian too. Fun fact – Bulgarians nod when they say no and shake their head when they mean yes.
  • Yes = да (da)
  • No = не (ne)
  • Please = моля (molya)
  • Thank you = благодаря (blagodarya)
  • Hello = добър ден (dobar den)
  • Where is the toilet? къде в тоалетната (kade e toaletnata)
• Currency: Bulgarian Lev, or Leva, which is the plural. Most places had card machines and there were plenty of ATM’s. However, you will need small change for the buses.
• Electricity: The electrical current is 220-240 volts, 50-60 Hz. Wall outlets take the European two round prong plugs. However, you are better off purchasing a worldwide adaptor that can be used in Bulgaria as well other countries. At least then you can potentially get some further use out of it on future vacations. If you’re taking a number of electronics with you, then I would recommend purchasing a couple of these adaptors.
• Driving: In Bulgaria they drive on the right hand side of the road with speed signs in kilometres per hour (km). The speed limits are 50 km (31 mph) within towns; 90 km (56 mph) outside towns; 120 km (75 mph) on expressways; and a rather scary 140 km (87 mph) on motorways. Some of the roads we drove on were very old with huge pot holes and the paint had long since faded, so we had to drive slower in these areas.
• Navigating: We used Google’s free Offline Maps. Google Offline Maps allows you to access free maps for navigating that can be used offline i.e. you don’t need WIFI, data, or roaming to be able to use them. Follow this detailed guide on how to use Googles Offline Maps. Using your phone as a GPS will drain your battery quickly, so use a portable battery charger which you can use to charge your phone and any other USB chargeable devices. If you prefer a paper map, then purchase a Bulgarian road map before you go. At least it’s reliable and won’t run out of battery or malfunction like the electronic options!