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Prague is the beautiful capital city of the Czech Republic. Although summer is a popular time to visit Prague, we found that it’s also makes for a great winter escape. It’s relaxed atmosphere, historic architecture, delicious cafes and pub culture makes this a very cool city to visit.
Day 1
We arrived in Prague on an evening flight and it had just begun to lightly snow. Thankfully the airport was quite orderly, so we managed to get through customs reasonably quickly. We then headed to the public transport desk to buy our tickets (open 7am to 9pm) as we planned to get the airport bus and then metro to our accommodation. Purchasing tickets at the counter is cheaper than buying them on the bus, and the staff are also really helpful. They provide you with a map and can tell you how to get to your hotel. When taking public transport, don’t forget that you will need to validate the ticket. In trams and buses, the ticket validation machines are located on the holding poles near to the vehicle doors and at the stations they are upon entering the station area.
Once we got to our hotel and dropped off our bags, we and headed out to U Kroka restaurant (Vratislavova 28/12, 128 00 Praha 2) to enjoy a delicious modern Czech meal. This restaurant is very popular, so I would recommend making an advance reservation which you can do online. If you have not tried steak tartare before then I encourage you to be brave and try it here. It was delicious alongside a Czech Pilsner. Traditional goulash with dumplings are also a Czech favourite.
Day 2
First thing in the morning we headed out to visit the very beautiful Old Town Square. Prague is a very attractive city, and the Old Town Square is spectacular. Steeped in history, some of its Gothic buildings date back to the 14th century. As we wondered around enjoying the sites, we snacked on a trdelnik or funnel cake for breakfast, a crispy pastry in the shape of a funnel and encrusted with sugar (my husband’s idea of course, not mine).
The highlight of this area is the Old Town Hall Tower. Constructed in the early 1400’s, it sits in the middle of the square and houses one of Prague’s most popular tourist attractions, the medieval Astronomical Clock. Every hour on the hour a crowd of tourists gather to watch its entertaining performance.
We spent our day exploring the Old Town area. There are lots of interesting touristy stores to visit and if you are wanting to do some shopping, there is also the Palledium shopping mall in this area. There are lots of good café’s to choose from, but a particularly delicious place for lunch is Paul, a French Patisserie (Václavské nám 796/42, Nové Město, 110 00 Praha 1-Nové Město-Praha 1). I know, not traditional Czech, but really yummy.
A quirky sight worth seeing is the statue of King Wenceslas riding an upside-down dead horse. You can find it hanging from the ceiling of the Lucerna Arcade, a rather dull shopping mall. The sculpture was created by David Černý, a Czech sculptor who is known for his provocative creations. It’s a mocking reference to the more famous equestrian statue of King (and later, Saint) Wenceslas that sits in Wenceslas Square. This artist is very popular in Prague, and we found more of his statues during our trip (keep reading for more details).
We ended our afternoon by crossing the Charles Bridge and walking down the riverside back to our accommodation. The bridge spans across the Vltava river and connects Old Prague town centre to Mala Strana. No matter what time of day it is, this historic bridge is a popular tourist attraction. It features three imposing Gothic towers and thirty Baroque-style statues. One of them is that of Saint John of Nepomuk, a national saint of Bohemia who was thrown into the Vltava River. The statue marks the very spot where he was thrown in.
Following a much needed afternoon rest, we headed out to the Municipal House for an evening performance of Vivaldi’s Four Seasons. It was held in the Smetana Hall concert venue which was beautifully decorated in the style of Art Nouveau. The performance was wonderful, Four Seasons is my favourite and the gorgeous setting made the experience magical.
Day 3
In the morning, we headed up the hill to Prague Castle which looks out over the Vltava River. It is a bit of a climb up to the castle, but thankfully we walked past a chocolate shop selling delicious hot chocolate which was closer to liquid chocolate. It gave us a much needed boost of energy to get up the hill. Prague Castle is apparently the world’s largest ancient castle. You can buy tickets to all the main sights at either of two information centres in the second and third courtyards, or from ticket offices at the entrances. They last for two days.
Within the walls of the castle is a collection of historic buildings, museums and galleries that will take you the morning to explore. You can choose a ticket that includes entry to the twin spire St Vidus Cathedral (if you don’t have a ticket, then there is a free viewing area just inside the door) and St. George’s Basilica.
One of the most popular attractions is the changing of the guards that happens hourly from 7am-6pm. The guards are very impressive in their uniforms. I found the guards playing instruments from the open windows of the building overlooking the courtyard amusing.
Afterwards, we needed a break from the crowds, so we headed for a walk in the more peaceful large park around the castle.
In the afternoon, we explored the Mala Strana area, also known as Little Quarter or Lesser Town. This is the perfect place to do your souvenir shopping and to allow yourself to get lost. This area is just as popular as the Old Town area, but its historic cobble stoned streets are like a maze leading you down narrow lanes. That’s how we stumbled upon two peeing statues. The two life sized peeing men are another of David Černý creations. These sculptures actually move, their hips turning side to side, spreading their ‘pee’ into the fountain below them. They are very entertaining to watch!
We then visited the nearby Kampa Island, a small strip of land bordered by the Vltava River and a small canal. Here you will find the fascinating Kampa Art Museum. However, if you don’t have time or money to visit, there are plenty of sculptures to enjoy surrounding it.
Nearby Kampa Island, we found a haunting memorial to the victims of communism. The sculpture is of a man being eaten from the core before finally losing part of himself. Inscribed on a tablet was the description: “The memorial to the victims of communism is dedicated to all victims, not only those who were jailed or executed but also those whose lives were ruined by totalitarian despotism.”
In the evening, we enjoyed the opera Carmen at the beautiful National Theatre. Famous for its performances, this is THE place to enjoy a night of entertainment which also includes ballet and drama. Not only are the performances top notch, but the setting is absolutely beautiful.
Day 4
On our final day we were scheduled to fly home in the early afternoon, so we went out for a nice breakfast at the French Café Amandine (Na Moráni 1689/17, 120 00 Praha 2 – Nové Městospent). This place is worth a special mention as they serve delicious breakfasts and drinks and their sweet cabinet has irresistible delicacies.
Following our breakfast splurge, we headed out to enjoy a final walk around Prague and spent our remaining Czech Krona on some yummy chocolate souvenirs (most of which made it home).
Practical Tips for Visiting Prague
- Language: Czech, however, as Prague is a tourist city most people speak English. Even so, do try your hand at a few Czech words:
- Yes = ano (ano)
- No = ne (ne)
- Please = prosím (proseem)
- Thank you = devkuji vam (dyekooyi vam)
- Hello = Dobrý den (dobree den)
- Currency: Czech Koruna.
- Tipping: Locals rarely tip. By Czech law, service is included, but a tip is not included. So if you see a restaurant with a sign that states “Service is not included”, this is not legal.
- Electricity: The electrical current is 220 volts, 50 Hz. Wall outlets generally take the European two round prong plugs. However, you are better off purchasing a worldwide adaptor that can be used in Prague as well other countries. At least then you can potentially get some further use out of it on future vacations. If you’re taking a number of electronics with you, then I would recommend purchasing a couple of these adaptors.
- Public transport: Prague has excellent public transport including bus, metro, and tram. Apart from the area around the castle, the city is quite flat and is a great city to explore on foot if you are able to.
- Navigating: Use Google’s free Offline Maps. Google Offline Maps allows you to access free maps for navigating that can be used offline i.e. you don’t need WIFI, data, or roaming to be able to use them. Follow this detailed guide on how to use Googles Offline Maps. Using your phone as a GPS will drain your battery quickly, so use a portable battery charger which you can use to charge your phone and any other USB chargeable devices. If you prefer a paper map, then Lonely Planet’s Prague Pocket Travel Guide comes with a helpful pull out map. At least it’s reliable and won’t run out of battery or malfunction like the electronic options!
Accommodation Options in Prague
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