The Ultimate Guide to Exploring Bordeaux

Disclaimer: This is not a sponsored post, I paid for this trip myself. All recommendations and opinions are my own.

We spent four nights in Bordeaux during our two week holiday in France which included Toulouse, Cacassonne, Arcachon, Bordeaux, and Bergerac. During our stay in Bordeaux, we not only explored the city, but also spent a day in the nearby historic village of Saint-Émilion and enjoyed a wine tour in the Médoc region.

Bordeaux sits on the Garonne River in southwestern France and is at the heart of a very famous wine growing region. As well as its amazing wine, Bordeaux is a stunning city and has the most beautiful 18th and 19th century architecture. It was much larger than I had anticipated, so was glad we had allocated a full day and a half to sightseeing. We also discovered that the city has a rather significant rat problem. In fact, as soon as we stepped off the tram at Place de la Bourse, we were confronted with some dead rats on the sidewalk. We also saw some live ones scampering down alley ways during our stay. The apartment we were staying in had those rat sound deterrents in several rooms, and we also saw a number of rat exterminators (business must be booming). However, don’t let that put you off!

Day 1

We arrived in Bordeaux via train, as we had been enjoying the sun, beach and oysters at the wonderful beach resort town of Arcachon. We jumped on the tram that was stopped outside the exit and took it to Place de la Bourse where our accommodation was located.

Place de la Bourse

After checking in at our apartment, we headed out sightseeing. We walked back to Place de la Bourse to get a better look at it. It is a very large square that was built from 1730 to 1775 and sits on the Garonne River. The feature has water jets in the ground that regularly go off in order to keep the surface wet so that it creates a wonderful mirror effect. The water spray is a lovely way to cool down on a hot day! The square has a beautiful backdrop featuring a water fountain and magnificent building that houses the Customs Museum and the Bordeaux World Heritage Centre which provides a history of the city.

 Tip

• There is no ticket machine or shelter at the Place de la Bourse tram stop. I think it’s because it would ruin the beautiful views, but it is not very helpful if you are wanting to purchase a ticket. You don’t have to purchase your tram ticket on the day of use, you can purchase it at any time, because it is not ‘in use’ until you get it stamped in the validation machine.

Les Quais De Bordeaux

It was a beautiful sunny day so continued our walk along the quay. You get lovely views of the city up and down the river from here and a closer look at the cruise ships docked on rivers side. Further up the quay, heading towards the Pont Jacques Chaban-Delmas (bridge), there is a nice retail strip with cafes, bars, and some shopping outlets where you can find some bargains.

Jacques Chaban-Delmas

We continued our walk and crossed Jacques Chaban-Delmas to get to the park on the other side of the river. If you love bridges, then you will find this one interesting, as it actually lifts up vertically to allow the cruise ships through. It was named in honour of Jacques Chaban-Delmas, a former Prime Minister of France and a former mayor of Bordeaux. As you cross the bridge, you get to see some of the inner workings up close. You also get great views of the city.

Parc aux Angéliques

On the other side of the quay is Parc aux Angéliques, a beautiful park and garden where people come to cycle and run, and enjoy a picnic. There is a public toilet here as well as a water fountain to fill your drink bottles. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to stay long as there was a massive storm sweeping across the city. We quickly returned to shelter at one of the cafe’s along the quay as it absolutely bucketed down for the next hour. We hid under the big canopies of the bar and enjoyed some Bordeaux wine.

Esplanade des Quiconces

Eventually the rain began to ease and pass. So we headed back the way we had come. We stopped off to enjoy the Esplanade des Quiconces, with it’s two great 21 m high columns facing the Garonne. These were erected by Henri-Louis Duhamel du Monceau in 1829. One symbolises commerce, and the other stands for navigation. The square also features a monument that was erected in memory of the Girondists (members of a political faction) during the French Revolution. In the centre is another large column with a statue representing the spirit of liberty, and on either side of it are beautiful bronze scenes decorated with thrashing horses.

Opéra National de Bordeaux – Grand-Théâtre and Place de la Comédie

A short walk from Esplanade des Quiconces is the Grand Théâtre. Unfortunately we didn’t get time to see any performances, but the building is beautiful, as is the buildings that surround it in the square place de la Comédie. Nearby is the interesting Sanna sculpture by Spanish artist and sculptor, Jaume Plensa. It is a very long and narrow face that gives different perspectives depending on the angle in which you view it.

La Grosse Cloche

Along Rue St James we came across one of the oldest belfries in France, La Grosse Cloche. It translates as the ‘big bell’ because it contains a very large 7.75 ton bell. It’s the only remains of the old city ramparts. This 18th-century bell sits above a former dungeon for juveniles and is rung on special occasions. However, you can actually go inside it for a small fee, but unfortunately it was closed by the time we got there in the late afternoon.

Porte d’Aquitaine and Place de La Victoire

The Porte d’Aquitaine monument sits in place de la Victoire which is the gateway into the main shopping district. It dates from the eighteenth century and was raised at the site of the Porte Saint-Julien, an old fortified gate of the thirteenth century.

Sunset in Bordeaux

On our first evening in Bordeaux we were treated with the most stunning sunset. We returned to the water mirror which looked stunning in the pink light. If you stay on until it gets dark, place de la Bourse looks amazing all lit up.

Day 2

On our second day in Bordeaux, we went on a full day tour to the Médoc wine region. This region is famous for its full bodied red wines and its many stunning Châteaux. Read about my wine tour of Médoc Region.

Day 3

On our third day in Bordeaux, we took a day trip to the beautiful medieval village of Saint-Émilion, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Read about my day trip to Saint-Émilion.

Day 4

Today was our final day in Bordeaux, so we planned a full day of sight seeing.

Cathédrale Saint-André de Bordeaux, Mairie de Bordeaux and Musée des Beaux-arts

In the morning we visited the majestic Bordeaux cathedral which dates back to the 11th century. Out the front of the cathedral is the Pey Berland Tower, which you can pay to enter and enjoy views over Bordeaux. In the same square and beside the cathedral is Mairie de Bordeaux, the town hall, and also Musée des Beaux-arts (the Museum of Fine Arts).

Parvis des Droits de l’Homme and Château du Hâ

If you enjoy interesting architecture, then behind the cathedral on Rue des Frères Bonie is the court house which is a very interesting mix of old and new. The impressive old jail tower is connected to the modern court house that features huge tub/vase like structures sitting on concrete legs. I wondered what was in them and if they were very functional. From the top of the entrance stairs you get a nice view of the old jail house and the cathedral behind it.

Palais Gallien

On our way to the gardens, we stopped off to see Palais Gallien, the oldest remnant of Bordeaux back when it was called Burdigala. It is the remains of a Roman amphitheatre which dates back to the 3rd century. The main door and arches still remain of the large arena which once accommodated 2000 spectators. This site is free to visit. I was surprised that there wasn’t anyone else there when we visited, as I think this site is often missed by most tourists.

Jardin Public

I loved Bordeaux’s public gardens, as they were a great place to escape the hustle and bustle of the city. It was also nice to lie on the cool grass as it was getting very hot by the time we got there. In the gardens I saw a hummingbird moth for the first time. I’ve never seen a (live) hummingbird before, so at first I thought it was a bird, but then realised it’s body looked a lot like a moth. I was fascinated by it and kept trying to get a photo of it, but they are super fast! The rather average photo below is the best one I could manage to capture.

La Cité du Vin

I love wine and have been on many wine tours to vineyards around the world, so was looking forward to visiting the wine museum. The entry fee was very steep, so I had high expectations. We received our audio guides and headed off. I was disappointed to find that the entire museum consisted of rather boring information boards and videos of people talking in a rather uninspiring way about wine. I thought there would be something about the Bordeaux region and how the chateaus were established. There was one exhibit where you could smell different items which was interesting, but that was about it. Of course, this is just my own personal opinion, but I wish I had spent the €20 towards a good bottle of wine instead. At the end of our visit we got one small glass of wine up in the top floor of the building. It would have been better if you could have enjoyed a wine tasting up there. However, I did like the views and the ceiling which was made of inverted wine glasses.

Église Sainte-Croix de Bordeaux

Following our visit at the wine museum, we jumped on the tram and headed down to Église Sainte-Croix de Bordeaux, the Holy Cross Church. It’s an elaborate, Romanesque Catholic church and former abbey which features an 18th-century pipe organ. I would love to have heard it being played.

Basilique Saint-Michel

The Basilica of St. Michael is built in Gothic style and between the end of 14th century and the 16th century. Apparently the glass windows were destroyed due to WWII bombing. There is also a separate bell tower by its side which was built in the 15th century. This area has a middle eastern vibe, so if you are looking for some non- French food this is a good place to come.

Porte de Bourgogne

A short walk away is the monument Porte de Bourgogne that sits at the end of foot of the Pont de Pierre. This Roman style arch was built in the 1750’s as a symbolic gateway to the city.

Pont de Pierre

This wonderful historic bridge in the heart of the Bordeaux was commissioned by Napoleon. The wonderful 17 arches is in tribute to him as there are 17 letters in his name ‘Napoléon Bonaparte’. I also really like the nice old lamp lights dotted across it.

Porte Cailhau

Porte Cailhau replaced what was the original main gate into the city in 1494. For a fee you can actually go inside it, but you will need to walk up a rather tight and narrow staircase.

Food in Bordeaux

We stayed in an apartment in Bordeaux as we love to prepare local food for ourselves whilst we are on holiday. It also helps to keep our holidays in budget. However, here are the places we enjoyed whilst we were in Bordeaux.

Plume

32 Rue Cheverus, 33000 Bordeaux

When we arrived in Bordeaux we ate at a cafe called Plume which does a delicious all day brunch on Sundays. The place is really popular, so we did have a bit of a wait to get a table. The staff here speak perfect English. We sat in the upstairs seating area and the staff brought us a massive amount of food. Unfortunately the photo I took was very blurry, I think that’s because I was feeling overwhelmed by the amount of food before me. There was a large bowl of yogurt and granola, then a plate with an egg tortilla, ham, prosciutto, salad, and sausage. On top of all this was also a large basket of bread, scones, and a lemon muffin. You could also help yourself to drinks. I feel I hardly made a dent in mine, but I did get my muffin ‘to go’ in the end, because I felt sad leaving it behind.

L’Autre Petit Bois

12 Place du Parlement, 33000 Bordeaux

We visited L’Autre Petit Bois for dinner. It was nothing particularly exciting, but a good place for simple French food at a reasonable price. I particularly liked the quirky, quaint decor. The seat and table that we sat at outside was rather petite, but we managed OK. It was a great atmosphere on a warm summer evening.

L’Epicerie Jamon Jamon

3 Rue Louis Combes, 33000 Bordeaux

We stopped in at L’Epicerie Jamon Jamon on our way from Cathédrale Saint-André to Palais Gallien. We hadn’t had breakfast so were rather hungry. They sell delicious Spanish iberico ham at this deli and also ham filled sandwiches.

Le Carreau

30 Rue du Pas-Saint-Georges, 33000 Bordeaux

We visited Le Carreau on our final night in Bordeaux. We had spent a wonderful day in the beautiful historic village of Saint-Émilion. For dinner we both enjoyed a perfectly cooked steak accompanied by a bottle of red from Château Barreyre.

In Bordeaux is also the steak chain restaurant L’Entrecote (4 Cours du 30 Juillet, 33000 Bordeaux) which was made famous by the popular British celebrity chef and travel show host Rick Stein. You can read about our visit to L’Entrecote whilst we were in Toulouse.

Del’ice N’Coffee

35 Quai Richelieu, 33000 Bordeaux

It was rather hot during our stay in Bordeaux, so we visited this ice cream and coffee shop several times, so much that the friendly staff began to recognise us! Each time I enjoyed a very large chocolate milkshake. You can choose how many scoops of ice cream you want in your shake.

Le Canelé

This delicious caramelised cake is famous in Bordeaux and is flavoured with run and vanilla. The fresh ones from the bakeries are magnificent, but you can also get some packaged ones to take home with you to share with friends and family. They also sell them in the supermarket.

Accommodation Options in Bordeaux

Search available accommodation in Bordeaux

Budget

• Citotel le Chantry
• Studios in the historic center
• All Suites Bordeaux Marne – Gare Saint-Jean

Moderate

• Hôtel de Sèze & Spa Bordeaux Centre
• Hôtel Majestic
• Bordeaux Tour Du Pin Apartment

Luxury

• Le Palais Gallien Hotel
• Yndo Hôtel
• Appartements Place Gambetta – YBH

Practical Tips for Visiting Bordeaux

• How long should I visit Bordeaux for? This city is so big and there is so much to see and do that I think it’s best to allocate two days in Bordeaux if you can. However, if you are also wanting to add a wine tour to one of the nearby wine regions and a day trip to Saint-Émilion like we did, then you will need at least four full days here.
• Getting to and from Bordeaux airport into Bordeaux city centre: 
  • Airport shuttle bus: You can reach city centre by taking Navette Shuttle #30 Direct which operates every day from the airport to the central train station Gare de Bordeaux St Jean. Check the bus schedule to plan your trip.
  • Local bus: The cheapest option is the local bus that takes you to the central train station. Take bus Lianes 1+ operated by TBM. Tickets can be purchased from the vending machines, tourist sales office, or directly from the driver.
• Getting around Bordeaux:
  • Trams & buses: Trams are the main method of easy travel around the city, but there are also city buses. When you purchase a ticket from the machine, it can be used on any day, just make sure when you go to use it that you validate your ticket by putting it into the yellow ticket machines on board. However, please note there is no ticket machine at the Place de la Bourse tram stop. Refer to the Bordeaux public transport website for more details about fares and timetables.
    • Please note: There is NO public transport on the 1st of May each year which is their Labour day.
  • Bikes: Bordeaux is very large, so it would be faster and easier to cover more ground by making use of the city bike hire.
• Tourist Information Centres in Bordeaux:
  • Centre city: 12 Cours du 30 Juillet, 33000 Bordeaux
  • Central train station: Rue Charles Domercq, 33800 Bordeaux
• Eating and drinking out in France: Due to the different licensing in France, some café’s and restaurants are only licensed to sell alcohol with food, so in order to drink you must also order food. Bars have a different license that allows them to sell drinks without food. From my experience, establishments do try to make this clear to tourists, but it does end up causing confusion for some.
• Language: French. Although a lot of English speaking tourists visit Toulouse, we found quite a lot of people did not speak English, so do try to have your French translation app at hand. Here are a few French words to get you started:
  • Yes = oui (wee)
  • No = non (no)
  • Please = sil vous plait (seal voo play)
  • Thank you = merci (mare-see)
  • Hello = bonjour (boh(n)-zhoor)
  • Good evening = bonsoir (boh(n) swarh)
• Currency: Euro
• Tipping: The service charge is included in the bill, so there is no need to tip.
• Electricity: The electrical current is 220-240 volts, 50-60 Hz. Wall outlets take the European two round prong plugs. However, you are better off purchasing a worldwide adaptor that can be used in France as well other countries. At least then you can potentially get some further use out of it on future vacations. If you’re taking a number of electronics with you, then I would recommend purchasing a couple of these adaptors.
• Navigating: We used Google’s free Offline Maps. Google Offline Maps allows you to access free maps for navigating that can be used offline i.e. you don’t need WIFI, data, or roaming to be able to use them. Follow this detailed guide on how to use Googles Offline Maps. Using your phone as a GPS will drain your battery quickly, so use a portable battery charger which you can use to charge your phone and any other USB chargeable devices. The Bordeaux tourist information map is big, as the city is quite large. It has all of the major tourist attractions labelled on it as well as the tram lines which will come in handy if you get tired and need a ride. You can pick one up at the Bordeaux Tourist Information Centre at the central train station or centre city (addresses listed above). Your accommodation should also provide you with one.