Exploring Arcachon Bay – Where the French Spend Their Summer

Disclaimer: This is not a sponsored post, I paid for this trip myself. All recommendations and opinions are my own.

Our two week holiday in France took us to Toulouse, Cacassonne, Bordeaux, Saint-Émilion and Bergerac. But as it was the end of summer, I was keen to fit in a bit of relaxation and beach time, which led me to discover the beautiful seaside resort town of Arcachon (pronounced Ark-a-shon) in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region. This stunning location is where the French have been coming to summer for generations. I must admit, prior to planning our holiday in France I had never heard of Arcachon. It’s a short train ride from Bordeaux, and many tourists find themselves here for a day trip. After discovering how much there is to see and do in Arcachon, we decided to stay four nights, but I could easily have spent more time here.

Arcachon is a seaside resort town in southwest France in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region. It’s famous for oyster harvesting, beautiful beaches, pine forests, giant natural sand dune, extensive cycle paths, upscale resorts, and extravagant 19th-century villas. It was originally developed into a seaside resort from 1860 as a cure for tuberculosis as its sea air and pine forests that were said to be beneficial to sufferers. The train line from Bordeaux was extended into Arcachon, and it soon turned into a popular holiday destination.

Arcachon has four districts which are named after the seasons:

• The summer town (Ville d’été) which runs along the northern coast and is the most developed part of Arcachon. It is next to the beach and with a good array of restaurants, bars and shops.
• The autumn town (Ville d’Automne) which is to the east and around the marina and port areas of the town, including Aiguillon.
• The winter town (Ville d’Hiver) which is south of the summer town and is the best place to see the most beautiful and imposing villas from the end of the 19th century.
• The spring town (Ville de Printemps) that is in the western part of Arcachon and is closest to the lovely beaches such as Pereire to the west of the town centre.

As we didn’t have a car, we stayed in Ville d’été because it’s the most central place to stay as it’s close to the train station, ferry, shops and markets. To get to Arcachon, we took the train from Toulouse to Bordeaux, then purchased some tickets for the regular intercity train into Arcachon. As it is a local train, there is no allocated seating and the pricing is fixed. If you prefer, you can book your tickets in advance on the Trainline website. The train takes just under an hour because it makes a lot of local stops along the way.

Day 1 – Explore Arcachon

Unfortunately, the afternoon we arrived in Arcachon it had been raining and was cooler than we were hoping. But the rain eventually eased off enough for us to head out and explore the Ville d’été district. Although upmarket, Arcachon has a laid back feel and is a very attractive beach resort town, with an upmarket shopping area. It also doesn’t have ugly high rises lining the beaches. As it was the start of September, the bulk of the French had returned to work (August is when the French holiday), so it was relatively quiet.

We were staying beside the covered food market (Place des Marquises, 33120 Arcachon), which as you come to expect in France was excellent, although more expensive than shopping at the supermarket. They also have a delicious oyster bar here as well. In front of the market is an open square where they also hold an outside market. Here they sell a mix of food, clothing, jewellery and local wares. In this square is an excellent bakery and cafe, Opera Patisserie (49 D avenue Lamartine Place des Marquises, 33120 Arcachon) that we frequented many times during our stay. The attractive Town Hall building is also nearby.

We enjoyed exploring the shops as there is a nice range of clothing, homewares, and beach themed shops to visit. Although there were some expensive upmarket stores, the majority of them were affordable. Overlooking the shopping area is Parc Mauresque (19 Allée Stora, 33120 Arcachon) the local park and gardens. It is up on a hill (there is a lift at the base of it if you have limited mobility) and provided some nice views over the area.

We ended our evening with a walk along the peaceful esplanade which looks over the lovely sandy beaches of Plage Thiers and Plage d’Eyrac. The latter is located by a small port that is home to some luxury yachts. Bobbing around in the water is a whale tail sculpture. Apparently each year the colour and pattern painted on it changes. The ferry terminal is located by the jetty and has boats to the nearby towns around the basin including Cap Ferret and Andernos-Les-Bains. Tour boats can also take you for a trip around Bird Island (Île aux Oiseaux), which sits in the middle of the basin. The island is covered and revealed as the tides come in and out. You can also get out there by canoe.

Day 2 – Lac de Cazaux

Today we planned to cycle about 20 kilometres south of Arcachon to the lake called Lac de Cazaux. It is the second largest freshwater lake in France and is surrounded by pine forest. It takes about an hour to get there via a mix of dedicated cycle paths and cycle lanes on roads, so you do need a reasonable level of fitness and cycling confidence as that is a 2 hour round trip going at a steady pace. This time does not take into account any sightseeing stops.

We started our morning with a trip to the local market and bought ourselves a little roast chicken and baguette to make ourselves a picnic lunch. We then hired cycle bikes from Locabeach 33 (326 Boulevard de la Plage, 33120 Arcachon), which was near our accommodation, and headed out. We followed the cycle directions on Google maps which are the same as on the Arcachon tourist map. It takes you along the Arcachon esplanade, onto the D650, then onto the D112. If you go via the coastal path, it will take you about 30 minutes longer. You can also drive to the lake as there is onsite parking.

I was really impressed by the extensive cycle lanes and footpaths in Arcachon. The local authority have clearly done a fantastic job. Even if you aren’t a big fan of cycling, it really is the best way to get around and really explore the area. It is a relatively flat place, which means you don’t need the fitness levels of a Tour de France competitor. I’ll admit, I’m not the biggest fan of cycling. I am very capable of doing it, in fact for many years I had to cycle to school. It’s just that I don’t really love it. However, we did cycle for 3 of the days we were in Arcachon, and even thought my butt got very sore and my legs got rather weary (don’t skip legs day!), I have to admit that I did quite enjoy myself.

There is a village just before you get to the lake called Cazaux which has a good range of shops if you need anything. From there we cycled through the pine forest to get to the beautiful sandy shores of the lakeside spot called Beach Laouga. We were surprised to see that it was pretty much deserted when we got there. The water was lovely and warm, having warmed up over the summer. The lake has a very shallow shoreline which would be good for small children. If you want to explore further, there are some hiking trails that lead from here. However, be aware that some of this area is occupied by a military exclusion zone, we saw military aircraft flying overhead whilst we were there. During the peak summer period, you can also hire water sports equipment like canoes and sail boats.

We spent some time wondering around and exploring, then just enjoyed some relaxation. It got very hot, so later in the afternoon we sat and had a cooling drink at the local bar. There are two decent bars here selling food and drink. We went to Plage laouga lac de cazaux which had a lovely outdoor seating area looking out onto the lake.

On our way back into Arcachon, we took a detour and rode around the paths of a wetland along the road Avenue du Général Leclerc. The turn off is on the cycle path just after the roundabout that crosses Rue Camille Pelletan and there is a large information board with a map labelled ‘La Teste de Buch – Prés Salés Ouest’ which translates as salted meadows west. The paths are gravelled and there is loop that takes you back onto the main cycle path that runs beside the road further up by the next roundabout.

Day 3 – Cap Ferret

On our third day in Arcachon, we headed out to explore the headland, Cap Ferret. I’ve decided to dedicate an entire post to this day trip, so please read How to Spend a Day in Cap Ferret.

In the evening we returned to Ville d’été and had a lovely meal at Le Pitt (2 Avenue du Général de Gaulle, 33120 Arcachon, France). We shared a glorious seafood platter that included oysters, prawns, whelks, and anchovies. It also came with some pork paté and of course the usual delicious baguette and French butter. We washed it down with a delightful white wine from Bordeaux that the waitress helped us choose. The meal was very reasonably priced for the service and quality of food.

 Tips

• To help with your seafood ordering, I’ve included a list of seafood words in French that you will come across in my ‘Practical Tips’ section at the bottom of this post.

Day 4 – Dune du Pilat and West Coast Arcachon Beaches

On our final day in Arcachon, we decided to explore the west coast and head down to Dune du Pilat, the largest sand dune in Europe at 110m high and 3km long. We grabbed some filled baguettes from Opera Patisserie and hired some bikes from Locabeach 33 again, and headed out along the coastal path. It was a beautiful sunny day and it was really heating up. The glistening water looked very inviting, but we were determined to get to the sand dune before it got too hot. This route also takes you past the large ornate 19th century houses of the super rich, so be prepared to be awed by some beautiful architecture.

To get to the Dune du Pilat entrance and car park (fee applies), head up the D529 (cycle lane runs up alongside it) and at the roundabout is the entry. The cycle racks are near the main buildings. This is a popular site as it’s on the tour bus route. There are (free) toilets as well as several places to eat and some tourist shops here. We headed up the path to the see the dune. Entry to the dunes is free, and there is a set of stairs that takes you up to the very top, or you could burn some calories and climb up the steep dune instead. The views at the top are spectacular, with the forests, the basin and coastline sprawling out into the horizon. We spent time just sitting up the top and enjoying the views whilst munching on our sandwiches.

Tip

• At the base of the dune near the tourist stores, there is a lovely cool drinking fountain that you can refill your drink bottles at.

We biked back to the coastline to explore the beaches. Near the dune is a popular restaurant called La Co(o)rniche (46 Avenue Louis Gaume, 33115 Pyla-sur-mer), but we decided to dedicate our time to enjoying the coast instead. Our first stop was at a little sandy beach at Pyla sur Mer. The entrance is on the D218 just before the roundabout that crosses Avenue de l’Ermitage. There is parking available as well as (free) public toilets. There was also a little cafe here in front of the sailing club building. The food looked nice, but as we had already eaten, we just enjoyed an ice cream instead.

After enjoying our peaceful little spot, we continued on to the popular resort town of Le Moulleau. This is a very busy town that is popular with the wealthy who live in the surrounding beach mansions. I should mention that as the main street is very busy and narrow, the bike path diverts you around it via the quieter back streets.

By Sunset Pier on Avenue Notre Dame des Passes, there are bike racks and an ice cream shop called Ô Sorbet d’Amour where we enjoyed our second ice cream for the day. Before heading down to the beach, we had a look around shops and also headed up to see the church, Chapelle Notre Dame des Passes du Moulleau. Whilst we were there a wedding was taking place. The church is up on a hill and if you walk up to the entrance of the church, you will be rewarded with a nice view overlooking Le Moulleau.

We then spent some time relaxing at the beautiful beach, Plage du Moulleau. This one is particularly popular, so more crowded. There is also a jetty here with ferries to Cap Ferret, and also around to the pier where we were staying, at Ville d’été. If I came back to Arcachon, I think it would be nice to enjoy a stay here.

Eventually, the afternoon was wearing on, so we headed back to return our bikes. Along the way enjoyed some short stops at the beaches Plage des Abatilles and Plage Pereire. It was one of those amazing days that you wish could just go on forever. I could easily have spent more time here enjoying all the stunning beaches. However, the following day we headed on to our next destination, Bordeaux.

Accommodation Options in Arcachon

Search available accommodation in Arcachon

Budget

• Pyla Camping – Beside Dune du Pilat and also features a swimming pool.
• Hôtel L’Ostréi – This hotel is located in the central Ville d’été district and near the shops, ferry terminal, and train station. The beach Plage d’Eyrac is nearby.
• All Suites La Teste – Bassin d’Arcachon – Apartments overlooking a lake with onsite pool.

Moderate

• T Boutique Hotel, an Ascend Hotel Collection Member – This hotel is located in the central Ville d’été district and near the shops, ferry terminal, and train station. The beach Plage d’Eyrac is nearby.
• Residhome Arcachon Plazza – These apartments are located in the central Ville d’été district and near the shops, beside the ferry terminal, and near the train station. The beaches Plage d’Eyrac and Plage Thiers are nearby.
• La Guitoune – Sitting on the coast, a 2 minute walk from the beach and by the popular resort town of Le Moulleau

Luxury

• Hotel La Co(o)rniche – This hotel near Dune du Pilat and overlooks the beach, Plage de la Corniche. It has the highly rated La Co(o)rniche restaurant. As well as luxury rooms, they also offer moderately priced rooms.
• Ha(a)ïtza – This luxury hotel is located by Dune du Pilat and the beautiful beach, Plage de la Corniche. It is near Hotel La Co(o)rniche but has its own one-Michelin-starred gastronomic restaurant.
• Hôtel Les bains d’Arguin by Thalazur – This hotel is near the beaches Plage des Abatilles and Plage Pereire.

Practical Tips for Visiting Arcachon

• How long should I spend in Arcachon? If you want to see and do everything that we did, then you will need at least 4 days here. However, if you want to take advantage of the beautiful beaches, then you may also want to add some additional days just for relaxing and chilling on the beach.
• Getting to Arcachon
  • Train: Arcachon is connected to the main rail line, so you can get a train here via Bordeaux.
  • Fly: The closest airport to Arcachon is Bordeaux airport.
  • Drive: The main highway into Arcachon is the A660
• Tourist Information Centres in the area:
  • Arcachon – au Théâtre – Olympia, 21 Avenue du Général de Gaulle, 33120 Arcacho
  • La Teste-de-Buch – 13 bis, rue Victor Hugo, 33260 La Teste-de-Buc
  • Gujan-Mestras – 37 Avenue du Maréchal de Lattre de Tassigny, 33470 Gujan-Mestras
• Getting around Arcachon:
  • Bus: There is a local bus service which runs more frequently during the summer months. You can check the schedule and purchase your tickets on their website www.bus-baia.fr. You can also purchase them from the driver as you get on. Only small animals are allowed on the bus, provided they travel in a travel cage or carry bag.
  • Ferry: There is a ferry service that runs from Le Moulleau to Jetée Thiers to Petit Port. There are also ferries to locations in the Arcachon basin including Cap Ferret, Le Canon, and Jetée d’Andernos. They run more frequently during the summer months. You can take your cycle bike on the ferries, but will need to pay an additional fee.
  • Cycling: Cycling is the easiest way to get around Arcachon and the surrounding area. There are dedicated cycle paths through the entire area and it is mostly all flat, so you don’t need to be super fit. It can be cheaper to hire your bike for several days instead of hiring it daily. However, there are a few things to factor in – your will need a place to store it securely when you are not using it, and you will need to pay extra to take your bike across on the ferries. Some tips for cycling safely in Arcachon – cycle to the right as if you were driving here (this is essential for those of us that are used to left hand driving). Also ring your bell to warn people you are approaching them as the pedestrians tend to spill out into the cycle path. Also ring your bell when passing slower cyclists to warn them, as there are a lot of ‘shaky’ cyclist that have a tendency to weave a bit.
  • Drive: There are good sealed roads around Arcachon and there is parking at the beaches, towns, sites and attractions.
• Eating and drinking out in France: Due to the different licensing in France, some café’s and restaurants are only licensed to sell alcohol with food, so in order to drink you must also order food. Bars have a different license that allows them to sell drinks without food. From my experience, establishments do try to make this clear to tourists, but it does end up causing confusion for some.
• Language: French. Here are a few French words to get you started. I’ve also included a list of the type of seafood related words you will likely come across.
  • Yes = oui (wee)
  • No = non (no)
  • Please = sil vous plait (seal voo play)
  • Thank you = merci (mare-see)
  • Hello = bonjour (boh(n)-zhoor)
  • Good evening = bonsoir (boh(n) swarh)
  • Le poisson = fish
  • Les fruits de mer = seafood
  • Le saumon = salmon
  • Le saumon fumé = smoked salmon
  • La Crevette = prawns/shrimp
  • Le homard = lobster
  • Les moules = mussels
  • Les huitres = oysters
  • Les coquilles Saint-Jacques = scallops
  • Le bulot = whelks (a delicious sea snail)
• Currency: Euro
• Tipping: The service charge is included in the bill, so there is no need to tip.
• Electricity: The electrical current is 220-240 volts, 50-60 Hz. Wall outlets take the European two round prong plugs. However, you are better off purchasing a worldwide adaptor that can be used in France as well other countries. At least then you can potentially get some further use out of it on future vacations. If you’re taking a number of electronics with you, then I would recommend purchasing a couple of these adaptors.
• Navigating: We used Google’s free Offline Maps. Google Offline Maps allows you to access free maps for navigating that can be used offline i.e. you don’t need WIFI, data, or roaming to be able to use them. Follow this detailed guide on how to use Googles Offline Maps. Using your phone as a GPS will drain your battery quickly, so use a portable battery charger which you can use to charge your phone and any other USB chargeable devices. Arcachon has an excellent tourist map which is huge and covers the entire Arcachon basin and details the bike paths, sites and attractions. I recommend you pick one up from one of the Arcachon Tourist Information Centres listed above.