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Dorset was the first destination on our two week trip exploring Dorset, Devon, Cornwall and Somerset. We were extremely lucky to visit during some of the hottest days of the year, with beautiful clear blue skies everyday. Dorset is jam packed with stunning natural sites including dramatic white chalky cliffs, imposing rock formations that jut out of the sparkling clear aquamarine ocean, fossil beaches, and scenic coastal hiking paths. Not a day goes by that you don’t find yourself walking up a steep cliff side. By the end of our holiday my thighs and calves were very toned! Alongside the natural sites, there are also many interesting historical sites to visit, such as the Cerne Giant, Corfe Castle, and charming villages full of thatched cottages. To top it off Dorset has amazing fresh seafood and creamy local ice creams.
Money Saving Tip- Lots of sites, attractions and parking are owned by the National Trust. To save money, consider purchasing a National Trust membership.
Day 1
As we live in the UK, we drove to Dorset, but most people who arrive in Britain would likely arrive in one of the airports around London where its only a 2-3 hour drive. We had aimed to arrive in Dorset within 4 hours (wishful thinking!) but thanks to the crazy UK traffic it was more like 5.5 hours. We were relieved when we finally made it, although after we got off the M1 the final stretch of our drive had been rather picturesque as we passed through quaint villages with old stone thatched cottages.
Our first stop was the village of Corfe, a historic village of Dorset on the Isle of Purbeck. As we are National Trust members, we parked in their Castle View car park off the A351 (free for members, otherwise you need to pay and display) and walked about 700 metres along the gravel path into the village. There are other parking options including the West Street pay and display car park in the village and a larger one at Norden Park and Ride.
The short walk to the village from the car park brought us around the perimeter of Corfe Castle, which sits high on a hill overlooking the village. The castle is owned and managed by the National Trust, so we got free entry, however, non-members need to pay entry. It was a gorgeously sunny day so we sat on the grass in front of the castle to enjoy our packed lunch and some juicy red strawberries that we’d purchased from a road side stall just before arriving. Whilst we were picnicking we got to enjoy a birds of prey performance with falcons and hawks. During the busy summer periods they hold lots of events, so check out their website in advance.
After finishing our lunch, we headed up the hill to explore the castle ruins. The castle dates back to the 11th century and has an interesting history, which the National Trust shares on information signs dotted around the grounds (you can also join a guided tour). It was one of the last remaining Royalist strongholds in southern England, but it eventually fell in a siege. Afterwards the government ordered it to be ‘slighted’ i.e. destroyed so it could never be used as a fortification against them again.
For defence reasons, the castle is on a high hill, so its a really lovely viewing spot over the village and the beautiful countryside that stretches out around it. Whilst we were exploring the ruins, the birds of prey from the demonstration, swooped and glided over our heads. It was a really enjoyable experience.
Once we had finished exploring the castle, we took a stroll through the absolutely charming historic town of Corfe with its chocolate box thatched stone cottages. There were several nice pubs, cafe’s and restaurants in Corfe. We also popped into the free Corfe Castle Town Hall Museum (6 West Street) that has a little exhibition of the towns history.
It was very hot and we were hanging out for a swim, so we drove on to Knoll beach which is only about 15 minutes from the castle. It’s owned by the National Trust and has a large car park (free for members, pay and display for non). Knoll beach is located on a lovely stretch of sandy coastline which has several beaches with parking dotted along it. As we’ve come to expect from National Trust properties, the beach had good amenities including bathrooms, an outside shower, cafe, and a very busy ice cream booth. They sell Marshfield farm ice cream which is from Wiltshire (you can even visit the farm) and it was lovely and creamy.
After a sunbathe, swim, and an ice cream, we spoke to the helpful National Trust staff at their information booth and they gave us a free map to walk the coastal path to Old Harry Rocks (White Rocks). You can actually see it jutting out of the water from Knoll beach. The path is part of the very long South West Coastal Path and it took us just over half an hour (one-way) to get to Old Harry Rocks from Knoll beach. It was quite easy to find our way as there were way markers that looked a bit like tombstones along the path. It was a lovely evening for a walk. Along the path we passed a field with some cute friendly free range pigs (which belong to the luxurious The Pig on the beach hotel) and also stopped to explore some old WWII lookouts. Eventually we arrived at the stunning white cliffs and enjoyed the views of Old Harry Rocks as well as the other white chalky rocks jutting out of the water.
Tip
- There are some free public toilets at the corner of Manor Rd and Watery Lane where you turn off to get to the final path to Old Harry Rocks.
On our way back we stopped for a quick drink at the Bankes Arms which has one of the most wonderful beer garden I’ve ever seen. It’s a small field across the lane from the old pub and it has the most stunning views overlooking the ocean. In the evening we arrived in Swanage where we had booked a B&B for the night. Accommodation can be quite hard to find during the busy summer months and Swanage is a good central base in which to explore this area. It’s a sleepy coastal town popular with families, but that also means that many of the restaurants close early, so don’t leave dining out too late. We were keen on devouring some seafood, so on the recommendation of our B&B host, we went to Gee Whites on the quayside. They had an open balcony restaurant upstairs and a more relaxed informal restaurant/takeaway downstairs on the pier with picnic table seating. We could hear people being turned away from the upstairs restaurant due to it being fully booked, so decided to seat ourselves downstairs. Both of their restaurants have similar menu’s but it’s much cheaper downstairs. It was a lovely warm evening and we enjoyed some fresh seafood and cold beer and wine whilst people watching on the pier.
I love how light it is in the evening thanks to daylight savings. Although it was getting late, it was still light enough to explore, so we walked along the seafront to Prince Albert Gardens with its Roman open-air amphitheatre and then up the grassy hill to the lookout point to enjoy the views.
Accommodation in Swanage
Search available accommodation in Swanage
Budget
- Robertsbrook Guest House – we stayed here
- YHA Swanage
- Rivendell Guest House
Moderate
Luxury
- There is no luxury accommodation in Swanage, but The Pig on the beach in nearby Studland which I reference above looks amazingly luxurious.
Day 2
Today we launched into our exploration of the Jurassic coastline. We drove to Lulworth Cove and parked in the very expensive £9/day parking lot (you don’t have much choice, there is no other parking available) by the visitor centre. The road through the village was wonderful, as it was lined with cute thatched cottages. This would be a lovely spot to stay overnight. We walked down onto the beach, its shores are not sandy, but made up of quite large stones. We had planned to walk along the cliff side to Fossil Forest, so we needed to walk along the rocky shoreline to get to the path that takes you up to the top of the cliff. It’s quite difficult to see it from the cove entrance, but it is on the left side. It was slow going walking along the large stones and they made a deep crunching, echoing sound as we laboured across them.
It was a lovely sunny day, and although it was still early, it was beginning to get very hot. Once at the top of the cliff, we found the tombstone style way markers, although they were a bit difficult to find amongst the overgrown bracken. We walked along to a breathtaking lookout over the beach. We continued along the path and then passed through a gate onto fenced military land. Just inside the gate we found the steps down to the Fossil Forest, however, you can no longer walk all the way down to the old forest floor due to damage to the stairs. But we walked down as far as we could and we could still see the remains of what used to be a forest that now only exists as fossils. We continued to walk along the cliff side track for a bit longer so we could enjoy the views and the beautiful wildflowers. There were lots of bugs and butterflies about.
Eventually we headed back to Lulworth Cove for a swim. However, the water coming in from the river created very cold currents through the water, so it was more of a paddle for me, but hubby is much braver and dived in for a swim. We had built up an appetite with our walking so stopped to have an early lunch at the local food van. We had a really delicious homemade crab and lobster burger which was super fresh. There are lots of cafes and restaurants to choose from around the cove. If you have self catering accommodation and love seafood, then the local Seafood Shack looked amazing, with lots of fresh seafood to choose from to take home to cook.
We set out on another walk to get to Durdle Door and Man o War. We headed along the path past the car park and up the rather steep hill that leads to Durdle Door and Man o War. At the top we walked through a field fill of cattle. Sadly we watched as one sucked and chewed on a plastic drink bottle that someone had mindlessly dumped on the path. Apparently cattle chew them because the plastic can taste sweet or salty. Please don’t dump rubbish on paths and swap to a metal drink bottle!
We got to the path that lead down to the viewing point and were suddenly joined by a lot more tourists. There is another car park above Durdle Door, as well as a busy Holiday Park so it gets very busy. There were also some food caravans offering refreshments. We joined the crowd and headed down the steep path to get a closer look at the amazing stone formations. This sight is truly breathtaking. The sun was shining and the water was a beautiful sparkling turquoise. The rock formations of Durdle Door and Man o War were amazingly dramatic. We couldn’t wait to get down there, but we had to be patient as the narrow stairs leading down were crowded. The path to Man o War were officially closed due to the steps being damaged, but people had bypassed the barriers to make their way on to the beach, However, this side of the cliff was quite windy, so we turned down to Durdle Door beach which was more sheltered. The large stones made it quite difficult to get far, so we plonked ourselves down in front of the arch and cooled down in the deep, fresh water. The water was cold, but Shaun jumped in a swam through Durdle Door’s arch.
Eventually we realised we needed to walk back up the very steep cliff to get back to our car. It’s not a day on the Jurassic coast if you haven’t hiked up at least one cliff side! We were very hot again when we got back to Lulworth Cove so treated ourselves to a large two scoop ice cream at Jake’s. I had the eton mess and chocolate and Shaun had eton mess and pistachio. The flavours were really good and the ice cream was lovely and creamy. We took them down to the cove and enjoyed one last paddle for the day.
On our way back to the car park, we walked up the hill overlooking the cove to see the Stair Hole, another dramatic rock formation. Then headed back to Swanage for the evening where went back to Gee Whites to enjoy a seafood platter and a bottle of cold white wine.
Day 3
In the morning we left Swanage to move on to our next location of Lyme Regis. But we decided to take a detour to see the 55 metre (180ft) high Cerne Giant, an ancient naked figure that is sculpted into the chalky hill side above the quaint historic town of Cerne Abbas…and yes, it has a rather large erect…umm…appendage. There is a pull in bay at the viewing spot on the A352, but if you want to stay for longer, then there is free parking just off the Duck St which runs beside it. There is also a walking path that takes you up onto the hill to see the Giant up close.
Whilst there, we also decided to explore the lovely village of Cerne Abbas. The village is a short walk from the Cerne Giant car park, although we took a longer path that lead us down the road and through a wooded area. We then arrived at a field which took us to the church cemetery. As we walked onto the end of Abbey St we found a small sign pointing us to a historical abbey. We passed through a gate (box for donations on the stone wall) and walked into the grounds of the old Cerne Abbey, which was founded in 987 and dominated the surrounding area for some five hundred years. Eventually it was destroyed by Henry VIII in 1539. We explored the abbey ruins, including an ancient holy well that is dedicated to St Augustine and supposedly blessed by the saint. There are a few surviving buildings surrounding it, one of which has been converted into accommodation.
We then continued down Abbey St towards St Mary’s church, which was built by the abbey for the parish in the late 13th century. Through an old stone arch beside the church is a lovely, peaceful garden that is open the public. The village is absolutely charming and filled with historic buildings. It’s the kind of town you can imagine living in. Eventually, we took the path along the river back to our car and headed onto Charmouth, a small coastal town in Dorset. I must admit the roads from Cerne Abbas became rather narrow and steep in some areas, but thankfully they weren’t too busy.
When we arrived in Charmouth, we parked in the very cheap £3/day Beach Car Park, off Lower Sea lane. We walked back up to the main road to grab some lunch at The Bank House cafe (The St, Charmouth) where I enjoyed a lovely crab sandwich and a very rich lemon roulade. We then headed down to the visitor centre to learn more about the fossil beach and its history. You can also rent a hammer from here to use down on the beach to find your own fossils. There is also an interesting fossil shop here selling both local fossils and fossils from all over the world.
We headed out for a walk along the beach to find our own fossils. You need to be careful when walking out on this beach, as you can easily get cut off by the tides. There are also massive cliff slips, so don’t walk too close to the cliffs! I was surprised to find fossils everywhere encased in both large and small rocks. Splash some water on them and they become even more apparent. Eventually we had to turn back as the tide was coming and we didn’t want to get cut off.
We drove on to Lyme Regis and drove down some very steep and terrifyingly narrow roads to get to our accommodation. I was relieved when we realised we discovered we could get into town on foot. So we parked the car and strolled down to explore Lyme Regis and collect some groceries for dinner. Lyme Regis is quite large and there are plenty of cafes, restaurants and shops to explore. If you love seafood, then there are plenty of seafood restaurants and fishmongers if you prefer to prepare your own. The beach was still busy, as the evening was warm. We walked through the pretty Jane Austin Garden overlooking the beach where we saw some gull chicks waiting for their parents.
Accommodation in Lyme Regis
Search available accommodation in Lyme Regis
Budget
There is limited cheap accommodation in Lyme Regis, but there is some options in the nearby coastal town of Charmouth:
Moderate
Luxury
Day 4
It was scheduled to be the hottest day of the year, so it probably wasn’t a great idea for a hike. But we only had one day here, so we got up early and headed to the Lyme Regis to Seaton coastal path. The path takes about 4 hrs one way, and if you don’t want to walk the return leg, then you can just catch a bus back. However, as we had limited time, we decided to walk half way, then turn back so we could spend the afternoon exploring the beach and the town.
To get to the path from our accommodation we had to walk up a very steep mountainside. Despite it being early in the morning, it was already very hot, so needless to say we were already tired once we reached the path. At the start of the path was a beautiful beach home called The Crows Nest. I had a bit of a nosy online when I got home and found out that the original holiday home cracked in two due to a land slip that caused the ground to shift (this whole coastline is very prone to it). So they rebuilt the home on a floating structural frame.
The forest was lovely and cool, which was a welcome relief. The downside was that there were a lot of mosquito’s living in there, so if you do decide to walk this path, make sure you cover yourself in mosquito repellent! The path was dry due to the lack of rain, but it looked like it could get quite muddy during the colder, wetter months.
Upon our return to where we originally joined the path, there was another path leading down to Monmouth Beach Car Park in Lyme Regis town, so we headed down through a lovely meadow which had stunning views of the ocean. There were lots of wildflowers and white butterflies out and about.
It was ice cream time, so we decided to try the local ice cream, Purbecks at the booth along the esplanade. This was one of the best ice creams that we tried on our trip (out of a total of 9!). If you love really creamy ice cream, then try Purbecks. We continued our walk along the coast to get to Fossil Beach. Thankfully the tide was out, so we were able to walk out along it and found the most amazing fossils. We saw lots of those large spiral Ammonites trapped in large rocks, as well as large clusters of crystals attached to rocks. I wish I could have taken some home with me.
We were rather hot and bothered by now so spent some time swimming and sunbathing on Monmouth beach while the tide was out, it was much quieter than the main Sandy Beach. Once the tide had started coming back in and was lapping at our feet, we went and had some deliciously fresh scallops fried in garlic butter from a hole in the wall, then took a stroll to the other side of the harbour where there is a path that runs along above the water. Before we headed back to our accommodation for the evening, we grabbed a sourdough for our dinner at the delicious Uprising Bakery – if we had had more time I definitely would have come back here for more – (Unit 2, Coombe St, Lyme Regis DT7 3PY) and a beer and cider at Lyme Regis Brewery (Mill Ln, Lyme Regis DT7 3PU), located by the historic Town Mill. There is also a cafe here and the old mill still operates and offers tours. We sat in the lovely garden at the back of the mill and enjoyed a cold drink.
Day 5
From Dorset we drove onto the equally beautiful Devon, so read my post on visiting Dartmoor National Park to find out more.
Practical Tips for Visiting Dorset
- What to pack: If you are planning to swim then wear some aqua shoes to protect your feet from the rather painful stones. The water is lovely and clear, so if enjoy snorkelling, then don’t forget your snorkel. If you can’t fit a snorkel into your bag, then pack some quality swimming goggles like these ones, so you can enjoy watching the fish in the lovely clear water. Take some comfy, but light, walking shoes to explore the coastline and some strong mosquito repellent to avoid getting bitten.
- Tides: Always check the tide times before heading out to explore, otherwise you can easily get cut off when they come in.
- Language: English
- Currency: British pound
- Tipping: Not required, but people usually round up.
- Electricity: The electrical current is 230 volts AC. Wall outlets take a three pronged plug only used in the United Kingdom and Ireland. However, you are better off purchasing a worldwide adaptor that can be used in the United Kingdom as well other countries. At least then you can potentially get some further use out of it on future vacations. If you’re taking a number of electronics with you, then I would recommend purchasing a couple of these adaptors.
- Driving: In the UK they drive on the left hand side of the road with speed signs in miles per hour (mph).
- Fuel: Fuel is expensive in the UK, so save money by downloading a UK fuel app so you can search for the nearest petrol station with the cheapest fuel.
- Navigating: We used Google’s free Offline Maps. Google Offline Maps allows you to access free maps for navigating that can be used offline i.e. you don’t need WIFI, data, or roaming to be able to use them. Follow my detailed guide on how to use Googles Offline Maps.
- Using your phone as a GPS will drain your battery quickly, so use a portable battery charger which you can use to charge your phone and any other USB chargeable devices.
- If you prefer a paper map, then purchase a road map before you go. At least it’s reliable and won’t run out of battery or malfunction like the electronic options!
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