Essential Guide to Buying Argan Oil in Morocco

Disclaimers: I have in no way been influenced or paid to endorse these products. All recommendations are my own.

So, you’ve booked your trip to Morocco and made a list of essential ‘must buy’ souvenirs (read my Moroccan souvenir recommendations here) and argan oil is on the top of your list. However, you have likely heard the warnings about shops selling fake and diluted oils and now you are concerned about being able to buy the read deal. Sadly, your concerns are very real, Morocco is full of shops selling fake or inferior argan oil. However, by using this guide, you should be able to confidently purchase some good quality argan oil.

What is Argan Oil?

Let’s start with the basics. Argan oil comes from the argan tree (Argania Spinosa) which produces fruits that take over year to mature. To extract the oil, the flesh of the fruit is removed and inside is a hard nut, which is cracked open to expose the kernel. The kernel is then ground down to produce the oil. If you are visiting Morocco, you’ll frequently see the trees quite literally filled with goats, who love to feast on them.

Cosmetic Versus Cooking Argan Oil

Argan oil is sold in two forms of oil, cosmetic and cooking. Cosmetic argan oil is made from the raw nuts, but cooking oil is made from roasted nuts. Although the cooking oil is much cheaper, don’t be tempted to buy it for cosmetic use, because roasting the nut removes the cosmetic rich ingredients, so don’t do it!

Benefits and Uses

Cosmetic argan oil: Cosmetic argan oil is deeply moisturising as it is rich in fatty acids, vitamin E and A, and antioxidants, all of which beautifully soften and hydrate the skin. Argan oil is also non-comedogenic, which basically means it won’t block your pores.

Argan oil is used for its moisturising properties in a variety of cosmetics products including facial oil, face and body creams and hair products. But you can also just use the raw oil directly on your skin and hair. Argan oil can soften fine lines, plump skin, fade dark spots and scars. For those of you that struggle with acne and/or oily skin, you will be surprised to learn that using the right blend of oils may actually benefit your skin. Some people find that it can help with dandruff, eczema and dry skin and that it can make your hair shiny.

Cooking argan oil: Similar to canola oil, culinary argan oil is and made up of 80% unsaturated fat, of which about 32% is essential linoleic fatty acids and 47% oleic acid. Its health benefits are like those of olive oil, but it has even higher vitamin E and omega-3 fatty acids which can help with inflammation. It tastes like a smokier sesame oil and can be used in everything from dressing salads, frying and baking.

What to Look for When Shopping for Argan Oil in Morocco

Read the Label

• Before purchasing, take the time to carefully inspect the label. Look out for these specifications:
• The label should read 100% pure argan oil (Argania Spinosa). It should have NO other additives, not even fragrance or water.*
• The label should specify whether the oil is for cosmetic or cooking use (e.g. some may have ‘Argan Oil Not Roasted’ – which would mean it is for cosmetic use.)
• It should also have a pack date, but I found this to be lacking in most places – even ones that were reputable (frustrating!).
• It should be labelled as ‘Made in Morocco’
• Look out for organic certifications:
  • USDA Organic (United States Department of Agriculture)
  • NOP (United States National Organic Program)
  • ECOSERT certifie par MA-BIO-154 (European)

If the bottle does not have a label with these specifications, then don’t buy it.

* Many shops sell argan oil mixed with different oils and essential oils. These are fine if that is what you are wanting to purchase, however, if you are just wanting 100% pure argan oil, then check the label to ensure that it has no other additives.

Packaging

A glass bottle is best, but PET plastic is also fine (non-PET plastic can deteriorate over time and affect the oil). A dark bottle is great because it will protect it from exposure to light, but it will also affect your ability to see the colour of the oil which is really important (see below). Most shops sell argan oil in a spray bottle, which is quite a good non-messy way to easily use it on the body and hair.

I found that most shops in Morocco sell argan oil in clear plastic bottles. Although I was cautious about it, I did end up purchasing some oil in a plastic bottle from a reputable store, but I never had any issues or concerns with it. At the end of the day, you will just need to weigh up the situation and make the decision you are comfortable with.

Colour

Cosmetic argan oil: It should be a lovely light golden yellow colour. Some of the fakes I saw were quite orangey, so steer clear of those ones. When cold, argan oil can go cloudy, which is fine. Once it warms back up it will return to a clear yellow.

Cooking argan oil: As the nut has been roasted, it produces an oil with a deeper, golden brown colour.

Smell

Cosmetic argan oil: Argan oil has a mild nutty aroma (some identify it as a smell of popcorn or rubber band). The scent should disappear after few minutes upon contact with your skin. You should avoid strong smelling or odourless oil.

Cooking argan oil: As the nut has been roasted, the argan cooking oil should have a more pleasant, nutty fragrance which should smell delicious.

Texture

Most stores will have samples available for you to try. I find argan oil to be quite a thick in consistency, NOT watery. It should also rub easily into your skin and absorb reasonable quickly (but remember, you only need to use a little bit, otherwise it will feel too oily), but shouldn’t be sticky or slimy.

Just make sure that the oils you buy are the same quality as what they offer as samples, because some irreputable sellers might do the old switch-a-roo and swap it for a bottle of inferior oil as you buy it.

Price

Cosmetic Argan oil is labour intensive to produce and it is quite rare and in high demand, so don’t expect it to be cheap. If it is, then it should be a warning sign for you to stay away from it, as it is likely fake or just the cheap cooking oil. However, don’t get carried away and pay top dollar just because it’s from a luxury shop with fancy packaging!

Where to Buy Argan Oil

Most stores in the city and towns have a lady sitting out the front “making” shops argan oil. However, this is just fake, so don’t fall for it. If you are staying in a riad, then ask the owner where they buy their argan oil. Most Moroccans purchase them from their local pharmacy/ herboristeries which charge reasonable prices.

You can also purchase them at one of the many Fair-trade cooperatives (dotted around Essaouria and the Atlas Mountains). Although the prices at these places are usually more expensive, these businesses enable local women to earn an income and provides them financial independence, which is difficult for women in this part of the world. Prices are usually fixed, but fair.

Alongside the pure argan oil, shops usually sell a range of other products made with argan oil, for example, face and body creams, lotions, soap, scented argan oil, and lip cream. These products are great if you don’t want to use the pure oil. They also sell a range of argan cooking oil, argan honey, and some really delicious argan nut butter (I love this stuff).

When you enter any store, remember the key points I’ve made about the look, smell, feel and labelling. Also, try and observe how old the stock is – if the labels are faded and dusty, that’s not a good sign. The store should also be reasonably busy with a good turn over, so stock is regularly replaced.

How to Store Argan Oil

If stored correctly, your argan oil can last a long time. Once you get home, store your oil in a cool, dry dark cupboard, as light and heat can degrade it. But don’t forget about it! Although the oil can be stored for a while, it will eventually go rancid. So use it and enjoy it.